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Juil
15
2010

Une maison de mandarin


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Tout juste en rentrant, avant que les beautés de ce lieu ne m’échappent…
Nous venons de dîner dans un très bel endroit, le guide, en sortant de l’hôtel m’avait prévenu de prendre mon appareil photo que j’ai préféré laissé dans la chambre à sécher. Nous sommes arrivés dans le village du dragon d’or, proche de l’endroit ou le premier roi Nguyen décida de développer la ville de Hué pour en faire la capitale du Viet Nam.
C’est au fond d’une étroite rue sombre que l’on arrive devant une belle porte en bois. Passé cette porte, c’est un jardin magnifique que l’on découvre, composé de plusieurs petits étangs, d’arbre aux odeurs délicieuses et de crapauds faisant leurs discutions.
Nous sommes alors accueillis dans la « maison » principale, premier bâtiment construit pour la résidence de ce mandarin, grand-père de l’homme à l’allure timide et âgée qui nous offrira le dîner ce soir. C’est alors sur une table en bois de fer, entourée de bancs très joliment détaillées et sous un toit de bois somptueusement nacrée, devant l’autel des anciens, que cet homme nous présente la demeure dont il a hérité. Pendant près de 20 minutes il nous parlera, traduit par notre guide, Mr. Thien, de l’histoire de sa famille, la construction de la demeure et des particularités architecturales de celle-ci.
Tout le bois est magnifique, sculpté en détail, finesse, sur lequel de magnifiques dessins en laques sont apposés. Nous sommes dans un petit palais, une résidence de mandarin à l’époque de l’avant dernier roi de la dynastie Nguyen.
Nous serons seuls à dîner ce soir. L’ouverture de la maison est toute récente et un seul groupe est présent à la fois pour déjeuner ou dîner. 4, au milieu de ce jardin, à qui on nous présente de magnifiques plats.
Nous commençons par des nems dont la galette de riz les entourant est particulièrement fine et délicatement croquante. Accompagné de chair de crevette mélangée à quelques herbes et légèrement frit.
Ensuite une petite salade fraîche, mélangé au noic nam et composée de fleurs de bananiers, ananas, nouilles très fines, concombre, carotte, soja et d’autres petites douceurs.
Ensuite arrive un potiron frais, refermant une soupe douce, sûrement mélangée à une pâte de soja.
Puis une spécialité de Hué, du bœuf mariné puis sauté sur une tuile, posé sur ce qui peut ressembler à un kanoun, un petit pot à braise en terre cuite. La viande, mélangée par nos soins à un simple mélange sel-poivre-citron est très tendre et savoureuse. On retrouve ensuite les petites galettes de Hué : une toute petite mais épaisse galette de riz parsemée de tige d’oignon vert, crevette frit sur laquelle on verse un peu de noic nam toujours. Un régal. Entre le frais et tendre de la galette et la friture de la crevette….
Enfin, une feuille de bananier renfermant un riz délicatement parfumé et accompagné de quelques ailes de poulet cuits et revenus dans la citronnelle.
On terminera par une assiette de fruit frais, rafraichissant, de la pastèque, du melon vert, des mangoustans bien juteux et quelques bananes en beignet recouvert d’un fin miel et quelques cacahuètes.

J’oubliais de préciser que tout cela était servi dans de magnifiques bols, assiettes, visiblement assez anciens, toujours très détaillés et tenant de belles couleurs rouges pour le « verre » à thé par exemple.

Un endroit exceptionnel pour un repas savoureux, loin de la ville et des rues bruyantes qu’il me tarde de retrouver.

Posted in Dégustation | 2 Comments »

Juil
15
2010

Rencontres et saveurs


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Je vous ai parlé pour le moment de ce que l’on a vu, des paysages surtout, d’une rencontre à Mai-Chau, mais il manque encore beaucoup, il manque les échanges de regards. Il manque tout ces moments d’égarement pendant lesquels je tourne mon objectif sur le publique attentif à un spectacle, sur les rues dans lesquelles je me perds pendant la visite d’une fabrique traditionnelle, sur les personnes que je rencontre, toujours très invitant, près à nous offrir le thé et un petit siège dans une maison, près d’un courant d’air un peu moins chaud.
Il y a aussi toutes ces saveurs que nous avons rencontrées. Comme on me l’a précisé la soupe Pho est finalement très simple, et il y a d’autres choses que nous avons découvert, dans la rue, sur les paniers des vélos de tous ces marchands arpentant les rues toute la journée, sur le perron de tous les restaurant de rues devant lesquels on passe lais s’arrêtant trop peu souvent. 3 repas par jour font peu finalement, on voudrait en faire 5, 10 pour goûter à toutes les nuances. Et puis il y a les « grands restaurant » prévus par notre guide. Nous sommes toujours dans un voyage organisé et la découvertes de quelques grands restaurant est aussi au programme. On est dessus du premier par la froideur de l’accueil et les quelques saveurs plutôt simple. Trop impressionné du luxe débordant du second pour profiter d’une cuisine raffinée puis on s’exalte dans le dernier, juste avant de quitter Hà Noi. Il paraissait simple de l’extérieur, mais déjà bien plus grand de la cour intérieur. On arrive ensuite dans une salle simple, légèrement décorée et à la lumière tamisée. A table, des occidentaux principalement, mais aussi un vietnamien il me semble. Le service est à notre rythme, non pressé et à la chaine comme le sont les très grands. On nous apportera la soupe de légumes puis les quelques entrées que l’on nous laissera découvrir, mêler à notre rythme.
Les entrées commenceront par une salade de fleur de bananier, sans savoir les reconnaitre celle-ci était très fraiche, avec beaucoup de goût, de la menthe et de la citronnelle qui agrémente beaucoup de plats. Peut6être quelques grains de sésame qui se perdent dans la salade. Puis avec cela des raviolis de viande, un mélange savoureux de viande enroulé dans une galette de riz, non frit et recouvert de quelques oignons frits. Un régale pour le palet de mélanger cette viande revenue, dans de la menthe et d’autres herbes que je ne saurais décrire puis cette galette, fraiche et tendre.

Ensuite viennent les plats, accompagnés d’un riz sauté avec quelques herbes. Il y aura une délicieuse sauce aux cacahuètes, douces et sucrées recouvrant de grosses crevettes à la chair croquante et tendre à la fois. Un jus d’aubergine sautés et accompagnées de quelques morceaux de porc venait recouvrir avec beaucoup de goût le riz de nos bols qu’il fallait ensuite attraper goulument pour réussir à manier entre les baguettes. Pour finir ces plats, un classique porc aigre-doux par son nom mais bien plus doux et non débordant de sucre que tout ce que l’on avait pu goûter jusque là. Un délicieux mélange Yin-Yang pour enrober ces tendres morceaux de porc.
Le repas se termine généralement dans ce genre de restaurant par quelques fruits de saison, de la pastèque visiblement…
Si l’on passe ce genre de restaurant et que l’on arrive dans ceux comme auxquels nous nous sommes arrêtés pour déjeuner sur la route du retour de Mai Chau, les choses change, beaucoup et en bien pour ma part.
Cela fait plus de 3hque nous roulons et il nous reste encore 2 bonnes heures pour rejoindre Ha Noi. Le chauffeur commence à fatiguer, nous à nous réveiller et avoir les estomacs qui crient famine. Notre guide choisit donc un endroit devant lequel se trouvent déjà quelques voitures. Je retrouve ici l’organisation des restaurant du matin pour les soupes : une large salle avec sur chacune d’elles un pot avec baguettes, quelques couverts, des serviettes en papier pour essuyer toute la sueur dégoulinant de nos fronts si l’on fait un peu de marche, et enfin quelques pots de piment au vinaigre, sauce pimentée, rouge etc.
Accompagné de Saigon Beer, ce sont pleins de plats qui viennent recouvrir la table. Tous pleins de saveurs, il y aura du tofu à la tomate, une fraiche sauce légère de tomates fraiches recouvrant un toufu frit, excellent, des légumes à la vapeur, frais et légèrement amer ; Il nous faudra un peu de sel pour en profiter. Une omelette bien revenue, agrémenté d’herbes fraiches et viande ressemblant à du jambon. On trouve également, du riz bien sûr, très fin mais simple, de la chèvre à la citronnelle, la viande est forte, très bonne, mais aussi un peu dure pour nos pauvres mâchoires. Pendant ce temps, l’arrière salle s’occupait d’égorger un cochon pour une fête à venir visiblement. La pauvre bête ne nous a pas dérangée trop longtemps. Il me manque encore certaines choses il me semble, j’essayerai de retrouver la suite de ce festin, se terminant par un très chaud, très fort et amer. Après tout cela, il était temps pour moi de retrouver les bras de Morphée pour une bonne sieste digestive dans le mini-bus…

Il me manque du temps car nous allons bientôt ressortir pour aller dîner à Hué mais je profite des quelques instants qui me reste devant la piscine de ce magnifique hôtel pour vous transmettre ces quelques pensées. Dès mon retour je vous parlerai des rencontres et des photos qui suivent (sur lesquelles vous pouvez maintenant cliquer pour obtenir un diaporama)

Posted in Dégustation, Photo, Rencontre | No Comments »

Juil
11
2010

24h au milieu des merveilles


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5h30, la ville est déjà réveillée depuis bien longtemps. Tous ne sont pas encore dehors et les klaxons ne se font pas encore trop entendre. Les rues sont calmes pour rejoindre le lac autour duquel ces dames font leurs Tai-Chi. Chacune à sa manière : en groupe, seule, sur une musique traditionnelle ou plus rythmée. Il y en a pour tous les goûts. En faisant le tour du lac on trouve aussi les hommes, plus virils avec leurs altères et la transpiration.

7h, il est temps de retrouver une soupe phô, au bœuf encore, mais sans les beignets cette fois. Puis le café. Par contre, impossible ensuite de me faire comprendre et ce sera finalement un café au lait. Toujours aussi bon et fort au léger goût de chocolat.

4h de route il nous faudra pour traverser 2 provinces et rejoindre les côtes de la ville voisine de Hà Long afin d’embarquer sur une « « jonque » », une suite climatisée plutôt, sur laquelle nous prenons le large pour nous retrouver au milieu de ce paysage si apprécié des touristes.

Nous emprunterons une voie à l’écart des bateaux surchargés mais nous finirons par les retrouver pour visiter une grotte éclairées de toutes les couleurs.

Quelques heures plus tard nous découvrons enfin au clame un paysage de rêve. Après une baignade sur une plage plutôt calme nous serons allongés sur la terrasse de notre bateau pour profiter du calme d’une crique offrant un ciel illuminé de tant d’étoiles. Le temps de reposer nos corps et profiter simplement du silence (presque) de cette mer magnifique.

Ce sera au matin, à 4h20, que le paysage offrira ses plus belles couleurs, une petite heure avant le levé du soleil ; c’est à cette heure que les formes se découvriront. A cette heure tous les bateaux sont à l’arrêt, les moteurs ne viennent plus polluer les lieux. Les lumières changent vite à cette heure et je peux tourner sur tout le bateau pour capter le plus d’images avant que le soleil ne vienne éblouir la mer. Les quelques touristes japonais qui nous accompagnent se réveil tôt eux aussi pour admirer le lever du soleil.

Nous serons allongés là, tous ensembles, dans le calme pour sentir le soleil venir chauffer bien rapidement nos corps avant d’arriver près d’une ouverture dans la roche, découvrant uniquement à marrée basse, un coin de mer paradisiaque. Faisant abstraction des grillons qui grattent sans répit, on parvient à distinguer quelques chants d’oiseaux cachés dans une végétation des plus luxuriante. De très grands oiseaux dont j’ai déjà malheureusement oublié le nom, guettent les passages des embarcations. Nous ne verrons par contre pas de singes qui, par moment, s’approchent pour profiter des fruits offerts par les gardiens de cette crique qui nous promènent sur de maigres embarcations.

Après un dernier bain dans la mer de la baie d’Hà Long, nous retournerons sur la côte pour retrouver notre minibus et les 4h de routes pour rejoindre Hanoi.  La route nous permettra de se reposer et de déguster un magnifique plat de nouilles sautées pour chauffeurs affamés pendant que leurs touristes visitent les « fabriques » d’artisanat…

La fin de journée sera en compagnie d’une famille de musicien, nous offrant la découverte de quelques instruments traditionnels comme le monocorde, le 16 cordes ou encore quelques instruments à vents. Moments de découvertes particuliers, dans une maison chaleureuse pour un échange finalement trop rapide.

Demain matin nous prendrons la route de Mai Chau à quelques 180km de Ha Noi, sur les hauts plateaux afin de découvrir une vallée qui devrait être des plus verdoyante. C’est chez une famille d’accueil que nous passerons la nuit avant de profiter de la vallée puis reprendre la route retour et prendre le train de nuit pour Hué.

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