Archive for the ‘Non classé’ Category

Sep

2015

Sortie de Jérusalem

La journée se préparait tranquillement ce matin : temps mort et réservations avant de prendre un bus en fin de matinée pour rejoindre Bethléem.

Finalement les coups de feux entendus depuis la douche faisaient bien écho à l’animation de la nuit. Après un caillassage en règle à Hébron dans la soirée, c’est un bus israélien qui prenait feu à peine 2h après notre passage, juste en bas de chez nous. Evidemment, pour un vendredi, la police n’a rien trouvé de mieux que e bloquer complètement l’accès à l’esplanade et à la veille ville, notamment l’axe longeant le cimetière juif du mont des oliviers que nous empruntons habituellement.

Je crois que l’éclat de rire du taxi, « Good day !! », le pousse levé et le sourire dans le rétroviseur ont fini par nous décider à reporter notre séjour à Bethléem prévu le midi même. Visiblement après un tel blocage on pouvait s’attendre à quelques impatientes, lacrymos et fouilles en règle à tous les check-point. La situation se calmerait en fin de journée…

Sur ces bonnes paroles et après avoir prévenu nos hôtes, c’est en direction de la mer morte que nous avons réorienté notre séjour. Passé les plages privées, les hôtels à 400€ la nuit, nous avons « expérimenté » la mer morte. Aux premiers pas, rien d’anormal, l’eau est normale, un peu lourde, chaude. On plonge le haut du corps, et sans comprendre on se retrouve déséquilibrer avec l’impossibilité de garder les jambes au sol. Il faut un certain effort pour redescendre les jambes et se tenir droit. A ce moment on commence à sentir que l’eau est vraiment lourde, elle laisse une pellicule d’eau épaisse sur le corps. Le contact avec la langue est radical, comme la décharge que découvre le petit enfant testant une pile rectangulaire avec le bout de sa langue. C’est là que les plaies de la quinzaine de piqûres de moustiques se réveillent.

Après un traditionnel et quasi-obligatoire bain de boue, achetée à la superette du coin, nous reprenons la route, une bière fraiche avec nous, en direction de l’hôtel que nous avons réservé à Arod précipitamment.

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Août

2014

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Août

2014

Séance coiffeur et Tres Ojos

Le séjour à Saint Domingue se poursuit toujours aussi agréablement. Après avoir fait la connaissance d’une nuit dominicaine dans plusieurs clubs de la ville et pris une claque avec une séance de tirs au pistolet en bords de mer, nous laissons redescendre les cousins de leur décalage horaire. C’est l’occasion, à quelques jours de la célébration de passer chez le coiffeur. Comme tout coiffeur dans un pays étranger c’est une expérience. J’avais vu passer Sam en Tunisie et à chaque fois c’est une belle histoire. Si j’ai moi-même des cheveux un peu longs lorsque je les laisse pousser, mon cousin a une véritable tignasse toute folle sur la tête. Le passage à la mode dominicaine n’est pas aisé, mais il parvient à lui donner une très belle allure malgré ses réticences. Une belle coupe affinée sur les côtés et encore de beaux cheveux sur le dessus. Ensuite vient le tour de la barbe qui se voit taillée, assez fine. Un beau collier jusqu’au menton.
Ensuite vient mon tour de passer sur le siège du coiffeur, ressemblant étrangement à un très bon ami à moi, Claudio. Pas très grand, bien musclé et avec une tête laissant penser qu’il ne faut pas venir l’embêter. On se rend vite compte qu’il est très sympathique et surtout un professionnel réalisant un travail de précision. Je n’ai jamais rencontré un coiffeur passant autant de temps sur mes cheveux. Il passe à la tondeuse, puis au ciseau, il s’attaque à la barbe, puis revient à la tondeuse sur les cheveux pour égaliser le moindre cheveu qui dépasse. L’exercice se terminera par une magnifique taille de la barbe à la lame. Il vent frotter dans les moindres détails, il change la lame 5 fois pour lui donner la forme souhaiter. Il terminera par un dessin au niveau de la barbichette, pas la partie la plus à mon goût mais sûrement la partie taillée avec le plus de détails.
Pendant ce temps les filles passent à la manucure-pédicure avec la femme du coiffeur qui est venu pour l’occasion dans la même boutique. Je ne passerais pas sur l’ensemble des étapes mais le passage du disque de ponceuse et du sucre au savon semble avoir fait le plus grand bien à ces dames. Je garderais l’idée du sucre pour le gommage…

Après une courte sieste, le temps que les cousins se préparent à arriver, nous partons en direction de Los tres Ojos, les trois yeux. Sur un fond de AC-DC, toute fenêtres ouvertes dans le 4*4, lunettes de soleil sur le nez.

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Août

2014

Nouveau départ : Santo Domingo

Me voici arrivé à destination, j’arrive en République Dominicaine pour une belle fête de mariage la semaine prochaine et j’en profite pour écumer mes vacances pendant tout le mois d’août. Si tout se passe bien, je devrai également fouler le sol Haïtien en fin de séjour.

Après une arrivée un peu longue à l’aéroport avec la perte de mon bagage, Fé et son frère Julio étaient là pour m’accueillir devant une première bière, bien fraiche à l’aéroport, la brahama light, breuvage local rafraichissant et considéré comme de la bière. La kro à côté est une bière particulièrement fruitée.

Nous quittons l’aéroport, direction un des bureaux de loterie d’Antonio, le frère de Fé. Comme partout, le meilleur endroit pour poser un tel kiosque : les quartiers pauvres, très pauvre. Il en possède 3 et celui lui permet suffit à faire vivre largement toute sa famille, voir plus.

A l’entrée du quartier, Julio relève son T-shirt pour rendre bien visible la cross de son pistolet qu’il a à la ceinture. Le message est clair : je sais où je suis, je suis couvert et je ne me laisserai pas faire. L’idée est de bien montrer que l’on est conscient et attentif. Il faudra le rester en permanence. Les motos sont particulièrement dangereuses. Il y a le conducteur qui maintient la moto en équilibre et un autre à l’arrière qui s’occupe d’arracher ce qui dépasse ou même ce qui se trouve sur les sièges des voitures.

La loterie est une petite boutique sur un coin de rue. Le temps de dire bonjour à tout le monde, de sortir quelques chaises et Julio est de retour avec une grande bouteille de brahama bien fraiche et quelques verres. En face de nous, le croisement de rue est animé comme peut l’être celui d’un pays où la chaleur nous pousse à vivre dehors.

Dans un coin, un groupe de jeunes, en jean’s et t-shirt qui ont vus passés les années sont en train de jouer au basket. Ils sont une bonnes dizaines. De l’autre côté, des gamins jouent à se jeter une balle de tennis ou quelque chose qui y a ressemblé il y a bien longtemps. Avec la nuit qui tombe, je me demande comment font-ils pour la rattraper et ne pas la perdre dans le pare brise d’une des nombreuses voitures qui passent à toute vitesse. Ici, on ne s’arrête pas sans raison.

Le meilleure reste l’épicerie elle-même d’où Julio arrive maintenant avec la 3ème bouteille de Brahama. On est assis depuis moins d’1h. Il y a les joueurs de dominos dans un coin, entouré de quelques personnes qui échanges régulièrement leurs places pour faire claquer les pièces sur la table. Les enceintes dehors crachent leur musique pendant que certains balbutient quelques pas de salsa ou merengue. Enfin, l’intérieur où les moins occupés boivent leurs bières entourés des chapadora cherchant leur prochaine cible pour la soirée.

Pour accompagner la 6ème bière puis 7ème bière, des amis reviennent avec 2 paquets dans les mains : langue et museau de cochon grillés, accompagnés de plantains frites. Un régal que l’on liquidera rapidement. Les quelques heures de vols m’ont passablement creusés l’estomac et il faut bien accompagner toute cette bière…

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Déc

2013

Réveil dans le désert

Malgré ce que l’on peut penser, je me réveille assez naturellement le matin, relativement tôt. Je m’endors rapidement le soir mais si mon sommeil est suffisant je me réveille régulièrement avec la lumière du jour qui vient baigner la chambre au matin.

Allongé dans le désert, sous la couverture et le cheich couvrant le visage, les premières lumières du jour ont suffit à m’ouvrir les yeux. Il doit être 4h, peut-être un peu avant, un peu après. Le ciel est encore sombre mais une première bande de lumière se montre face à moi. Le temps de se redresser, secouer un peu le sable, boire une gorgée d’eau et je pars sur “les hauteurs”.

Quelques arbustes, des pierres et le dessin des dunes commencent déjà à prendre de nouvelles couleurs. Enroulé dans le Burnous, il fait encore frais le matin, mais rien n’est plus plaisant que de poser les yeux sur tout ce qui m’entoure pour observer les changements minimes et permanents qui se produisent autour de moi. La nuit laisse petit-à-petit la place aux premières lumières du jour mais les couleurs manquent encore de contrastes. Plein Est, j’attends pendant de longues minutes l’apparition de la première lumière direct du soleil qui éclot derrière l’horizon des dunes.

C’est à ce moment qu’il faut regarder, non pas face au soleil, mais bien dans la direction de sa lumière. A ce moment le moindre pli de dune forme, entre la couleur orangée du soleil et l’ombre portée, des contrastes magnifiques. Les formes se détachent. On découvre un nouveau paysage inconnu la veille, inconnu quelques minutes auparavant et le désert s’étend à nouveau à son infini. La lumière du soleil est chaude, elle réchauffe le sable et l’esprit encore mal éveillé, toujours perdu dans ses pensées.

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Déc

2013

A l’ombre d’un 4×4

: Le coucher de soleil précédant la nuit…

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Juil

2012

Retrouver un peu de chaleur

Après 3h de vol, 3h de retard et 1h de douane pour cause de capsules de gaz pour bombe à chantilly, me voici arrivé à Djerba.
La maison de mes vacances est tout modifiée, adaptée et il me faudra du temps pour m’y faire et oublier. Il reste tout de même quelques vestiges : des luminaires, des malles, 1 bougainvilliers, du feuhl et surtout le bleu retrouvé des portes contrastant avec bonheur sur le blanc des murs.
Il a fait chaud la veille, il fera chaud aujourd’hui et pendant toute cette première semaine de ramadan. Encore la même période du jeûne et de l’activité nocturne pour venir retrouver l’île pendant 1 semaine de repos familiale.
Je profite donc de cette première journée au calme dans ce nouvel environnement pour ne pas faire grand chose si ce n’est : prendre conscience des 40*C extérieur, passer la vision nouvelle d’un ciel entièrement bleu et repenser à ces dernières semaines.

Tags: Djerba
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Août

2011

Matinée de pêche sur la lagune

Malheureusement il n’y aura pas de photo pour cette fois, simplement le portrait de Marfoud, le voisin, pêcheur, avec son petit fils prise la veille après le dîner de la rupture du jeun.
C’est un homme de moins de cinquante ans, qui a commencé à accompagner son père dès l’âge de 6 ans sur la lagune en face de la maison pour apprendre à perpétuer des techniques de pêche traditionnelles.
Le rendez-vous est pris pour 7h le lendemain. C’est finalement à 6h qu’il vient frapper à la porte de la maison, le moteur de la barque sur l’épaule. Après avoir embarqué sur une petite barque, il nous fera avancer à la force des bras poussant sur un bâton jusqu’à une seconde barque contenant elle, le réservoir d’essence pour le moteur. La lagune est large et il ne faut pas se priver d’un peu d’aide pour traverser.
Arrivés à l’autre bout de la lagune, le moteur est relevé. On marche un peu dans l’eau puis on arrête la barque à l’entrée d’une crique. On reste là presque 20min à attendre, plutôt à écouter les poissons s’habituer à notre présence et sauter hors de l’eau pour quelques bains de soleil. Ils sont nombreux à attendre gentiment.
D’un seul coup, Marfoud se repositionne à l’arrière de la barque, sort une bouteille plastique jaune ficelée et au filet et permettant de repérer son extrémité et commence à dérouler celui-ci.
Il faut expliquer que la lagune est peu profonde, 50 ou 70cm maximum. Le filet de nylon est donc fixé entre 2 cordes, l’une lestée de plomb pour couler au fond de l’eau et l’autre retenu par des flotteurs. Cela permet de tendre le filet entre le fond et la surface, les seuls poissons pouvant s’échapper sont ceux sautant au-dessus et les malins repérant les trous…
Le filet se déroule alors pendant qu’il pousse la barque jusqu’à fermer complètement la crique. Les 2 extrémités du filet s’enroulant comme des escargots pour éviter que les poissons sortent par ces extrémités des filets. On referme le bout puis on descend du bateau pour battre l’eau de l’intérieur du cercle à l’aide d’un grand bâton afin d’effrayer ce qui se retrouverons dans quelques heures sur les étalages du marché.
Après s’être reposé un moment sur la barque pendant que les poissons atteignent les filets, nous retournons vers la dernière extrémité du filet pour le remonter. La pêche est bonne pour cette première prise, il y a du mulet en quantité, des poissons ressemblants à la dorade mais avec des épines sur le dos et une petite sole. Nous recommençons l’opération 2 fois encore pour finalement terminer avec une caisse remplie au tiers.

La pêche aura durée près de 4h. Pendant que nous restions dans la lagune, tout juste de l’autre côté de ce bras de sable, la méditerranée venait se jeter avec fracas, enfin fracas modéré de méditerranée. Nous croisons également 3 flamants roses, du haut de leurs échasses à nous observer, sans fuir, alors que le pêcheur prend garde de conserver une bonne distance.
La matinée aura été splendide de calme, de beautés et de pensées ; La pêche, elle, aura été moyenne nous rentrons rapidement avant de déposer la caisse chez le pêcheur afin qu’il les prépare pour le marché. Nous rentrons de note côté pour se reposer à l’ombre de la terrasse avant que les dames rentrent des souks.

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Août

2011

Nouvelle destination : Retrouver la lagune de Djerba

Ce blog va reprendre vie pendant quelques temps, pendant 2 semaines, le temps des vacances que nous passerons ici, à Djerba. Nous venons avec Audrey, retrouver ici ma grand-mère et mon père qui restera plus de 2 mois.
Ce sera l’occasion pour moi de retrouver des visages que e n’ai pas vu depuis bien longtemps, l’occasion de retrouver la méditerranée et son calme d’huile qui me manque, la découverte aussi de nouveaux lieux, et faire plus de connaissance avec les voisins qui nous entourent et que j’ai finalement très peu vu pendant mes précédentes vacances ici.
La maison bâtie en partie par mon grand père, la maison où j’ai finalement passé beaucoup d’été est en grand changement, c’est encore peu visible pour le moment, mais elle va reprendre un nouveau souffle. Le gardien-jardinier qui est ici s’en occupe bien et le jardin reprend forme. Les oliviers sont toujours là, le figuier profitant de l’eau de la cuisine donne ses premiers fruits et le bougainvillier à l’intérieur offre son fuchsia écarlate en plein soleil, comme de nuit.

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Juil

2010

Derniers regards

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Ce sont peut-être les dernières photos que je présenterai ici de ce voyage, en tout cas depuis le Viet Nam ou le Cambodge. Lorsque je serai de retour, je prendrai le temps de les regarder plus que de ne les parcourir, je prendrai le temps de vous raconter des histoires que je n’ai eu le temps de partager ici. Je ferai cela avec les photos qui ressortiront, celles qui me rappelleront des moments particuliers, peut-être inoubliables, des moments peut-être difficiles à partager sans les avoir vécus ensemble.
Voici donc quelques photos qui vous raconteront quelques regards, croisés seulement, depuis une embarcation ou marchant sur le chemin traversant un village de maison sur pilotis en bordure du grand lac du Cambodge ; Elles vous raconteront une rencontre avec une femme bonze, quelque part, dans un coin d’un des temples restant de la grande capitale d’Angkor Thom ; Elles vous montreront des pierres de 1000 ans qui n’ont encore pas dit grand mots de leurs histoires, il reste encore beaucoup de travail avant de le faire toutes parler ; Ces photos vous feront participer à une grande après-midi de jeux des enfants sous une cascade d’où coule l’eau filant au milieu des sculptures de dieux dans la roche, la rivière aux 1000 lingua ; Peut-être croiserez-vous enfin ces 2 jeunes filles arrachant les fleurs de lotus et de nénuphars devant ce temple aux détails infinis.

Merci d’avoir suivi ce voyage avec nous, en espérant vous avoir fait partager certaines de mes rencontres, de mes pensées, de mon regard à travers cet appareil qui ne m’a que très peu quitté.
A très bientôt donc à Germigny pour partager ensemble ces photos.